Vaping101
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A brief overview of vaping for beginner vapers/ those early on in their journey. https://ift.tt/3kotOna

VG: vegetable glycerin This is one of the main components of your e liquid. It is fairly thick and is used to bulk out the liquid. It is said to be slightly sweeter than pg but once you add your flavour I find this negligible.

PG: Propylene glycol Another main component to your e liquid, pg is thinner than VG so can be useful in tanks and pods. Pg is also reported to be a better flavour carrier than VG which is why many flavour concentrates will be suspended in pg although some companies offer concentrates in VG. If you diy your own liquid make sure to factor this in to your ratio.

Companies will have the ratios of each VG and PG on the bottled for example 60/40 will mean the liquid is 60% VG and 40% PG. Each tank will vary on what it runs best with but as a general rule all in one devices tend to work better with lower amounts of VG, however other tanks and your all in one may need slightly more (check your manufacturers recommendations). If you choose an rda then you don't have to worry too much about VG/of ratios as you will be dripping straight to the coils so you don't have to worry about absorption as much)

Nicotine: The chemical every ex smoker and vaper knows, it is measured in mg in e liquid. Nic salts are usually higher concentrations of nicotine than freebase nicotine as is said to be less harsh at higher levels. Your individual nicotine requirements will depend on the device your using (see below) and your individual needs. This can be easily tapered down over time to help if you intend to quit nicotine for good.

Flavour concentrate: The stuff that gives you that yummy flavour. Most manufacturers will suspend the flavours in pg although there are manufacturers that suspend it in VG for those looking to vape max vg. Keep this in mind if you are mixing your own e liquids as what your flavour is suspended in will effect your ultimate VG/of ratio.

MTL: mouth to lung These are tanks that typically have a more restricted air flow that you draw into the mouth before inhaling completely. Usually used with higher nicotine strengths or those who don't need much nicotine.

DTL: direct to lung These tanks will offer more vapour and are to be inhaled straight to the lungs, while for those who are just coming off of smoking or need higher nicotine you can have higher levels of nicotine they are generally used with slightly lower nicotine values as the amount of vapour produced will mean you need less nicotine (best way I've heard it explained is a MTL is like a shot of spirit, high strength but not as much of it while if you did a direct to lung especially if on a sub ohm tank it would be like having a pint of the same spirit.)

Sub ohm Vs normal Non sub ohm tanks have a resistance equal or higher than 1 ohm and as the name suggests sub ohm tanks offer resistances lower than an ohm, sub ohm tanks offer a quicker heat transfer to the coils (although can depend on the type of coils) and more vapour produced. Sub ohm builds are quite common and can be helpful for those looking for a decent hit of nicotine if using a DTL tank or those looking to produce more clouds.

AIO: all in one These are as the name suggests all in one units, you will get everything you need to start vaping minus the juice. These devices are typically smaller and are suited well for those just beginning their vape journey as they are easy to use and don't require much tinkering. They also typically have a in built battery so you will have to charge through the in built usb port. They normally have a pod in them that houses the e liquid and coils that can be replaced easily.

Mod: This is a term used to describe the part of your vape that houses the batteries, screen and firing button etc. This will make up the bulk of your vape and is the part used to supply power to your tank and produce vapour. Outside of an aio the mod will require a tank or rda, depending on the manufacturer some will come with a tank or rda and some will supply the mod only. The plus side to these over an aio is if you want to switch out to a different type of tank this can be done without having to swap out the entire unit. These can have either an in built battery or external battery, see below for more info. Mods can also be regulated or "mech" mods

Regulated: Regulated mods will have a chip in them that allows you to select the wattage/ temperature via buttons on the mod and have built in safety mechanisms so that if there is a short circuit, low battery or something wrong with your coil/ set up it will not fire and alert you via a warning on the screen.

Mech mod: These are generally only recommended for more advanced vapers who fully understand ohm's law and are confident with building coils. Mech mods do generally offer a harder hit as it is basically just a housing, a battery and a switch of varying types to connect the battery power to your rda. These have no in built protections and buttons to adjust your wattage. Your coil build determine the amount of wattage drawn and the amount of amps and volts required to run them, this is the reason it is not recommended for starters or those who do not fully understand ohm's law and battery safety as if your build requires more and or volts than your battery can provide it can have unwelcome and painful results. . Yet again mech mods are not to be messed with, if you plan to get one make sure you understand ohm's law and battery safety and then do some more research to make sure.

Squonk mods: Squonk mods (also known as squonkers) are a type of mod that can be either regulated or unregulated. The defining characteristic of this type of mod is that they have a in built bottle within the device to hold your liquid, they are to be used with an rda with a bottom feed pin and because of this offer the pros of both a rda (better flavour and clouds) while still having the benefits of a tank (not having to carry a bottle of liquid with you)

Internal battery mods As the name suggests these mods have a battery built in to them and will be charged through a usb port built in to the device. While these may be cheaper or on par with external mods once the battery starts to wear out you will either have to charge more often or replace the mod.

External battery. These devices will need separate batteries that will be either 18650, 20700 or 2100, these are different sizes of batteries but 18650 is more common. They will entail extra cost to begin with (you normally have to buy batteries separately from the mod and a external charger) but once a battery starts to lose its charge you can replace it cheaply or if you change your mod you will be able to use your previous batteries in the new one. You will also be able to carry extra batteries with you that may not be possible with internal battery mods. So may be more investment to begin with but will most likely work out cheaper in the long term.

Battery safety. When using external batteries it is best to buy an external charger as while you can technically charge them through the mod this does put more of a strain on the batteries so they won't last as long. You will need to keep an eye on your external batteries as dents in the batteries can be dangerous and they should be discarded, you will also need to keep an eye on the wraps (a plastic like coating that covers much of the battery) if this becomes ripped or has scratches so that you can see the silver underneath it then this can cause a short within the device however it can be easily rectified by removing the wrap and putting a a replacement wrap on using a hair dryer/ heat gun (replacement wraps tend to be cheap and instruction videos can easily be found on YouTube for help re wrapping). When not carrying batteries in the device it is highly recommended to buy a battery case to protect them, especially if you plan to carry extra batteries with you. When it comes to batteries it is better to be safe than sorry.

Tank: For this break down I will use tank to mean something that will generally have a glass piece that holds your liquid and pre made coils that you buy and can easily be swapped out. Some tanks can take other coils from the same manufacturers but some will need specific coils just for that rank (please check info on your tank when buying so that you don't waste money on incompatible coils. The coils can come in many different types and ohms but again will depend on what the manufacturer offers for that specific tank. Tanks like this offer a good starting point for beginners or those that don't want to build their own coils. Tanks can be used on almost any regulated mod so are a good option if you plan to buy others or upgrade just the tank in the future. Tanks come in many different sizes and styles with different liquid capacity and some tanks will offer bubble glass that will allow more liquid capacity ( some tanks will come with bubble glass included in the box whole others you can buy as a separate piece.)

It is always recommended to prime your coils before the first use of a new coil, in order to do this put a little e liquid on any visible cotton on the coil (normally a couple of slots on the side of the coil and at the top of the coil) then insert it into your tank, fill it up (close the airflow for this part otherwise there is a higher chance of leaking) and leave the tank for around 10 to 15 minutes. Doing these steps will mean you are less likely to burn your coil out straight away.

Rta: rebuildable tank atomiser Rtas are much like the tanks listed above but instead of buying specific coils from the manufacturer that you can just pop in you will need to either make or buy pre built coils that you install then wick yourself. While making your own coils is generally cheaper they will require slightly more work than the plug and play style of tank. Rtas offer more flexibility than normal tanks and generally better flavour/ clouds.

RDA: rebuildable dripping atomiser A atomiser that takes coils you make yourself or can buy pre made, unlike a tank or rta these do not have a glass component to hold e liquid so you will have to drip e liquid into the coils every few puffs on the device. They come in multiple sizes the same as most tanks but the most common is 24mm, but can go up to 40mm. They have the draw back of you will need to carry a bottle of liquid with you to keep the coils from burning but do tend to offer better flavour and clouds than both tanks and rtas. Having to make and install your own coils do make them slightly more advanced than a normal tank but wicking is generally easier than an rda.

Coils/ wire: This section will go over only a few of the many types of wire available for rebuildable tanks/ rda's.

Metal types: Kanthal: One of the most commonly used type of wire for wattage mode users. It is easy to work with and will hold its shape well. Because of its wide usage it is easy to get a hold of.

Ni80: Also known as nichrome this wire is again for wattage mode and gas a lower resistance and ramp up time than kanthal, however it does have a lower heat tolerance than kanthal. As this wire is a combination of nickel and chromium it is not suitable for those that have a nickel allergy. It holds it shape well and is easy to work with but is not quite as easy to find as kanthal but it is becoming easier now days.

Stainless steel: This wire does contain nickel but at a lower amount than nichrome but anyone with allergies to it should proceed with caution. Another metal that holds it shape well and is easy to work with and is a bit easier to find ( at least in the UK than nichrome) this wire is handy if you want to try temp control vaping as it can be used in both wattage mode or temp control mode.

Wire sizes: Your gauge of wire will vary depending on your own preferances, they come in gauges typically from 20awg to 40awg, one thing to keep in mind is that the higher the number the thinner the wire, for example 24 gauge is thicker than 26 awg and is much thicker than 38awg. Higher gauges are commonly used for wrapping around a thicker core wire to make claptons and other more complex coils.

Round wire: Your most common type of wire available, it can be used on its own for a simple build or used to make more complex coils. A coil made with just plain round wire may not be as flavourful as more complex builds but will have a faster ramp up time and is easy to make.

Twisted wire: This is made by twisting 2 or more round wires together. This will offer more flavour and clouds than normal wire as the twists allow more juice to get in between them. This will have a slightly longer ramp up time.

Clapton wire: This wire is made from wrapping a higher gauge wire around a lower gauge one similar to a guitar string. These offer good flavour and clouds and not as much of a ramp up time as twisted wire, however is harder to make if you are making the wire yourself.

Fused Clapton: Similar to the Clapton but instead of a thing wire wrapped around a single core wire it will be wrapped around 2 or more core wires. This offers good clouds and flavour but a slower ramp up time. (From personal experience they can spit more but this will depend on your awg and build.

Staggered fused Clapton. This wire is in a sense a combination or the Clapton and a fused Clapton, you start with 2 Claptons that are "spaced" this means you have enough space between the outer wraps for the same gauge wire to fit between them, you then put the 2 spaced claptons next to each other and with the same gauge wire as the outer wire lay it in-between the outer wires, in the end you should have a daily flat wire with strands holding the 2 spaced claptons together (I'm not explaining this one well but as with many types of wires there are lots of video tutorials available that will show you how to do them if you want to make your own).

Please note there are many other types of wires you can make at different skill levels I just wanted to give a broad overview of some of the more common. Many of these wires can be brought pre made either on a spool for you to wrap yourself or already made into coils so you can just snip the ends and fix into your rta/ rda.

This is not an extensive list meant to cover every aspect of vaping but is meant to be a broad overview of a few different areas of vaping to help those that are just starting their journey. While I know a fair bit about vaping their is undoubtedly something I am missing off or haven't explained very well/ gotten wrong so if you want to add anything please feel free to comment. I made this as I remember what it is like when you are just starting vaping and you can have so many questions so please feel free to either message me or comment and I will do my best to help you out, as you have probably seen in this sub already a lot of us are willing to help out anyone experienced or new so if you have queries or concerns I'm sure you will get the answers you are looking for. I have missed out some wire types (such as different materials and ones such as alien wire and tiger wire etc but more in depth explanations can be found on here and YouTube) I have also missed out a segment on building your own coils as this is getting long already and if you are like me you may be better off with a visual tutorial than a wall of text but these can easily be found.

I hope this helps at least one person starting their vaping journey and am more than happy to receive questions or critism and ask any experienced vaper to comment anything they think I have left out to help out others who may read this.

VG: vegetable glycerin This is one of the main components of your e liquid. It is fairly thick and is used to bulk out the liquid. It is said to be slightly sweeter than pg but once you add your flavour I find this negligible.PG: Propylene glycol Another main component to your e liquid, pg is thinner than VG so can be useful in tanks and pods. Pg is also reported to be a better flavour carrier than VG which is why many flavour concentrates will be suspended in pg although some companies offer concentrates in VG. If you diy your own liquid make sure to factor this in to your ratio.Companies will have the ratios of each VG and PG on the bottled for example 60/40 will mean the liquid is 60% VG and 40% PG. Each tank will vary on what it runs best with but as a general rule all in one devices tend to work better with lower amounts of VG, however other tanks and your all in one may need slightly more (check your manufacturers recommendations). If you choose an rda then you don’t have to worry too much about VG/of ratios as you will be dripping straight to the coils so you don’t have to worry about absorption as much)Nicotine: The chemical every ex smoker and vaper knows, it is measured in mg in e liquid. Nic salts are usually higher concentrations of nicotine than freebase nicotine as is said to be less harsh at higher levels. Your individual nicotine requirements will depend on the device your using (see below) and your individual needs. This can be easily tapered down over time to help if you intend to quit nicotine for good.Flavour concentrate: The stuff that gives you that yummy flavour. Most manufacturers will suspend the flavours in pg although there are manufacturers that suspend it in VG for those looking to vape max vg. Keep this in mind if you are mixing your own e liquids as what your flavour is suspended in will effect your ultimate VG/of ratio.MTL: mouth to lung These are tanks that typically have a more restricted air flow that you draw into the mouth before inhaling completely. Usually used with higher nicotine strengths or those who don’t need much nicotine.DTL: direct to lung These tanks will offer more vapour and are to be inhaled straight to the lungs, while for those who are just coming off of smoking or need higher nicotine you can have higher levels of nicotine they are generally used with slightly lower nicotine values as the amount of vapour produced will mean you need less nicotine (best way I’ve heard it explained is a MTL is like a shot of spirit, high strength but not as much of it while if you did a direct to lung especially if on a sub ohm tank it would be like having a pint of the same spirit.)Sub ohm Vs normal Non sub ohm tanks have a resistance equal or higher than 1 ohm and as the name suggests sub ohm tanks offer resistances lower than an ohm, sub ohm tanks offer a quicker heat transfer to the coils (although can depend on the type of coils) and more vapour produced. Sub ohm builds are quite common and can be helpful for those looking for a decent hit of nicotine if using a DTL tank or those looking to produce more clouds.AIO: all in one These are as the name suggests all in one units, you will get everything you need to start vaping minus the juice. These devices are typically smaller and are suited well for those just beginning their vape journey as they are easy to use and don’t require much tinkering. They also typically have a in built battery so you will have to charge through the in built usb port. They normally have a pod in them that houses the e liquid and coils that can be replaced easily.Mod: This is a term used to describe the part of your vape that houses the batteries, screen and firing button etc. This will make up the bulk of your vape and is the part used to supply power to your tank and produce vapour. Outside of an aio the mod will require a tank or rda, depending on the manufacturer some will come with a tank or rda and some will supply the mod only. The plus side to these over an aio is if you want to switch out to a different type of tank this can be done without having to swap out the entire unit. These can have either an in built battery or external battery, see below for more info. Mods can also be regulated or “mech” modsRegulated: Regulated mods will have a chip in them that allows you to select the wattage/ temperature via buttons on the mod and have built in safety mechanisms so that if there is a short circuit, low battery or something wrong with your coil/ set up it will not fire and alert you via a warning on the screen.Mech mod: These are generally only recommended for more advanced vapers who fully understand ohm’s law and are confident with building coils. Mech mods do generally offer a harder hit as it is basically just a housing, a battery and a switch of varying types to connect the battery power to your rda. These have no in built protections and buttons to adjust your wattage. Your coil build determine the amount of wattage drawn and the amount of amps and volts required to run them, this is the reason it is not recommended for starters or those who do not fully understand ohm’s law and battery safety as if your build requires more and or volts than your battery can provide it can have unwelcome and painful results. . Yet again mech mods are not to be messed with, if you plan to get one make sure you understand ohm’s law and battery safety and then do some more research to make sure.Squonk mods: Squonk mods (also known as squonkers) are a type of mod that can be either regulated or unregulated. The defining characteristic of this type of mod is that they have a in built bottle within the device to hold your liquid, they are to be used with an rda with a bottom feed pin and because of this offer the pros of both a rda (better flavour and clouds) while still having the benefits of a tank (not having to carry a bottle of liquid with you)Internal battery mods As the name suggests these mods have a battery built in to them and will be charged through a usb port built in to the device. While these may be cheaper or on par with external mods once the battery starts to wear out you will either have to charge more often or replace the mod.External battery. These devices will need separate batteries that will be either 18650, 20700 or 2100, these are different sizes of batteries but 18650 is more common. They will entail extra cost to begin with (you normally have to buy batteries separately from the mod and a external charger) but once a battery starts to lose its charge you can replace it cheaply or if you change your mod you will be able to use your previous batteries in the new one. You will also be able to carry extra batteries with you that may not be possible with internal battery mods. So may be more investment to begin with but will most likely work out cheaper in the long term.Battery safety. When using external batteries it is best to buy an external charger as while you can technically charge them through the mod this does put more of a strain on the batteries so they won’t last as long. You will need to keep an eye on your external batteries as dents in the batteries can be dangerous and they should be discarded, you will also need to keep an eye on the wraps (a plastic like coating that covers much of the battery) if this becomes ripped or has scratches so that you can see the silver underneath it then this can cause a short within the device however it can be easily rectified by removing the wrap and putting a a replacement wrap on using a hair dryer/ heat gun (replacement wraps tend to be cheap and instruction videos can easily be found on YouTube for help re wrapping). When not carrying batteries in the device it is highly recommended to buy a battery case to protect them, especially if you plan to carry extra batteries with you. When it comes to batteries it is better to be safe than sorry.Tank: For this break down I will use tank to mean something that will generally have a glass piece that holds your liquid and pre made coils that you buy and can easily be swapped out. Some tanks can take other coils from the same manufacturers but some will need specific coils just for that rank (please check info on your tank when buying so that you don’t waste money on incompatible coils. The coils can come in many different types and ohms but again will depend on what the manufacturer offers for that specific tank. Tanks like this offer a good starting point for beginners or those that don’t want to build their own coils. Tanks can be used on almost any regulated mod so are a good option if you plan to buy others or upgrade just the tank in the future. Tanks come in many different sizes and styles with different liquid capacity and some tanks will offer bubble glass that will allow more liquid capacity ( some tanks will come with bubble glass included in the box whole others you can buy as a separate piece.)It is always recommended to prime your coils before the first use of a new coil, in order to do this put a little e liquid on any visible cotton on the coil (normally a couple of slots on the side of the coil and at the top of the coil) then insert it into your tank, fill it up (close the airflow for this part otherwise there is a higher chance of leaking) and leave the tank for around 10 to 15 minutes. Doing these steps will mean you are less likely to burn your coil out straight away.Rta: rebuildable tank atomiser Rtas are much like the tanks listed above but instead of buying specific coils from the manufacturer that you can just pop in you will need to either make or buy pre built coils that you install then wick yourself. While making your own coils is generally cheaper they will require slightly more work than the plug and play style of tank. Rtas offer more flexibility than normal tanks and generally better flavour/ clouds.RDA: rebuildable dripping atomiser A atomiser that takes coils you make yourself or can buy pre made, unlike a tank or rta these do not have a glass component to hold e liquid so you will have to drip e liquid into the coils every few puffs on the device. They come in multiple sizes the same as most tanks but the most common is 24mm, but can go up to 40mm. They have the draw back of you will need to carry a bottle of liquid with you to keep the coils from burning but do tend to offer better flavour and clouds than both tanks and rtas. Having to make and install your own coils do make them slightly more advanced than a normal tank but wicking is generally easier than an rda.Coils/ wire: This section will go over only a few of the many types of wire available for rebuildable tanks/ rda’s.Metal types: Kanthal: One of the most commonly used type of wire for wattage mode users. It is easy to work with and will hold its shape well. Because of its wide usage it is easy to get a hold of.Ni80: Also known as nichrome this wire is again for wattage mode and gas a lower resistance and ramp up time than kanthal, however it does have a lower heat tolerance than kanthal. As this wire is a combination of nickel and chromium it is not suitable for those that have a nickel allergy. It holds it shape well and is easy to work with but is not quite as easy to find as kanthal but it is becoming easier now days.Stainless steel: This wire does contain nickel but at a lower amount than nichrome but anyone with allergies to it should proceed with caution. Another metal that holds it shape well and is easy to work with and is a bit easier to find ( at least in the UK than nichrome) this wire is handy if you want to try temp control vaping as it can be used in both wattage mode or temp control mode.Wire sizes: Your gauge of wire will vary depending on your own preferances, they come in gauges typically from 20awg to 40awg, one thing to keep in mind is that the higher the number the thinner the wire, for example 24 gauge is thicker than 26 awg and is much thicker than 38awg. Higher gauges are commonly used for wrapping around a thicker core wire to make claptons and other more complex coils.Round wire: Your most common type of wire available, it can be used on its own for a simple build or used to make more complex coils. A coil made with just plain round wire may not be as flavourful as more complex builds but will have a faster ramp up time and is easy to make.Twisted wire: This is made by twisting 2 or more round wires together. This will offer more flavour and clouds than normal wire as the twists allow more juice to get in between them. This will have a slightly longer ramp up time.Clapton wire: This wire is made from wrapping a higher gauge wire around a lower gauge one similar to a guitar string. These offer good flavour and clouds and not as much of a ramp up time as twisted wire, however is harder to make if you are making the wire yourself.Fused Clapton: Similar to the Clapton but instead of a thing wire wrapped around a single core wire it will be wrapped around 2 or more core wires. This offers good clouds and flavour but a slower ramp up time. (From personal experience they can spit more but this will depend on your awg and build.Staggered fused Clapton. This wire is in a sense a combination or the Clapton and a fused Clapton, you start with 2 Claptons that are “spaced” this means you have enough space between the outer wraps for the same gauge wire to fit between them, you then put the 2 spaced claptons next to each other and with the same gauge wire as the outer wire lay it in-between the outer wires, in the end you should have a daily flat wire with strands holding the 2 spaced claptons together (I’m not explaining this one well but as with many types of wires there are lots of video tutorials available that will show you how to do them if you want to make your own).Please note there are many other types of wires you can make at different skill levels I just wanted to give a broad overview of some of the more common. Many of these wires can be brought pre made either on a spool for you to wrap yourself or already made into coils so you can just snip the ends and fix into your rta/ rda.This is not an extensive list meant to cover every aspect of vaping but is meant to be a broad overview of a few different areas of vaping to help those that are just starting their journey. While I know a fair bit about vaping their is undoubtedly something I am missing off or haven’t explained very well/ gotten wrong so if you want to add anything please feel free to comment. I made this as I remember what it is like when you are just starting vaping and you can have so many questions so please feel free to either message me or comment and I will do my best to help you out, as you have probably seen in this sub already a lot of us are willing to help out anyone experienced or new so if you have queries or concerns I’m sure you will get the answers you are looking for. I have missed out some wire types (such as different materials and ones such as alien wire and tiger wire etc but more in depth explanations can be found on here and YouTube) I have also missed out a segment on building your own coils as this is getting long already and if you are like me you may be better off with a visual tutorial than a wall of text but these can easily be found.I hope this helps at least one person starting their vaping journey and am more than happy to receive questions or critism and ask any experienced vaper to comment anything they think I have left out to help out others who may read this.

Submitted November 13, 2020 at 09:44PM by spikebike109
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