electronic_cigarette
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TC for MTL and Chain Vapers Only? LostVape’s First Non DNA Box Mod – Grus SS316L Temperature Control Testing Results https://ift.tt/3d2WUbS

https://preview.redd.it/wbon4wluyrg61.jpg?width=1982&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9e3bf9e12184b9091a34a0495b1018615b3f1ed

Imgur version of post for those using old reddit, here: https://imgur.com/a/3YFQnL9 The above is the first of 7 charts/states tested and does not represent overall performance – scroll down for full report and analysis, or the TLDR summary. See a full list of mods tested so far, at the end for comparison.

TLDR: This is a REALLY interesting mod – the first in-house board powered box mod from LostVape, who decided to try to ditch the DNA boards and strike out on their own. In short, they failed…but really not by much. A 40W power limit in TC mode means that the only vapers that will get to temperature will be single coil chain vapers (for their second puff) and maybe high ohm MTL vapers , unless the user is really going for a cold vape (like around 150C). It took around 2 seconds to get to 210C/410F on most coils, even giving it 1 second to heat up before starting the airflow. But once temperature is reached, its within ~7% of the set temperature which is not too bad, not amazing but not too bad…better than vaporesso products in any case. This is fortunate, because there is no way to set a TCR on this mod, so you can fix any inaccuracies even if you wanted to (cant set the power either). It also appears that the "live temperature display" actively hides any temperatures above your set temperature, which is very cheeky if true! As far as cheap mods go, a nuvoton board mod (most eleaf, joyetech, wismec and some geekvape mods) will perform better for the same money, and this is certainly not a competitor the DNA board that it replaced. I think someone at LostVape knows this, because the Lost Vape Evolv business has been spun out as a separate entity, and still uses exclusively for arguably the best TC mods on the market.

The following represents the results of temperature control testing of the LostVape Grus, the first box mod from LostVape that uses their own in-house board, rather than a DNA. The conditions of each test are shown in the title of each graph. A perfectly accurate temperature control result is the red line matching the yellow line.

———————————————–

For this first coil, low resistance, mid to high mass, vaped dry, without airflow (shown above), there was a hint of a dry hit smell, but not smoky. I stopped firing and then fired again to see if it did better in a chain vape scenario, and it does actually seem to bring the power down a but for the second hit, with an overall better result.

———————————————–

https://preview.redd.it/sj7qhwc7zrg61.jpg?width=1983&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c375d72e094b18b026b85a6f79c504d191f8231

Here is a more realistic case, low ohms, wet, with lots of airflow. I was surprised by how flat and consistent the outcome is, even if it is little over the set temperature, its not that inaccurate, and you could argue it is maintaining the temperature as a minimum almost perfectly. A couple of really important things to notice here:

a) the mod seems to be limited to 40W, which means it takes around 2 seconds to reach temperature….which is not a good outcome for TC vapers (I even gave it around 1 second to heat up before starting the airflow…but this mod suffers from the same problem so many mods do with TC, which is unnecessarily limited power)…this is supposed to be a 100W mod!

b) you can see the power is actually not a smooth/straight line, and interestingly looks almost a bit like PWM (but is not), and the effect is similar to a YiHi PWM TC outcome where the rapid changes in power (which you cannot feel) produce a band of temperature through the vape. Some argue that this improves flavour because of the wider range of temperatures the juice is being vaped at. This is quite a narrow band compared to a YiHi device however, with the temperature appears to be smoothly maintained between the set 210C and about 225C i.e. within about 7% of the objective (a YiHi on the other hand can easily display bands 20C wide).

———————————————–

https://preview.redd.it/jagqydk31sg61.jpg?width=1979&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94edb882f0506b952cfaf84541dacf9d3068846a

Here we have a mid ohm, dry coil, without airflow. No dry hit smell this time, and I took a break in the firing to see how it would respond to a chain vape fire, and it does seem to peak at a lower level this time. Again, around 10C over the set temperature at the peaks, but pulling back reasonably quickly. This is a roller coaster ride, not smooth at all, but one could argue in this vaped dry state, that is not an issue.

———————————————–

https://preview.redd.it/xuydjc3b1sg61.jpg?width=1983&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3bbc80edcb6034e42e171d15faeecc463010a85

For a more realistic, mid ohm, wet coil, with airflow, we again see a pretty flat but slightly banded temperature outcome between the set 210C and a slightly too hot 220C, but this may be intentional given the rapid power fluctuations we are seeing. As the airflow slows it pulls the power down appropriately, with an odd little peak that follows the airflow stopping completely (nobody would keep firing after stopping their draw though I assume, so we can ignore this). Again, if it wasnt for the extremely low ~40W maximum power issue that means it takes nearly 2 seconds to heat up, you might say this is actually pretty good. If youre a chain vaper, you subsequent puffs after you get it up to temp are probably going to be pretty good. For someone like me that isnt a chain vaper, unfortunately I found the vape too cold on every puff unless I waited 2 seconds for it to heat up before starting my draw. Interestingly they have chosen to show live temperature on the screen, which I am actually a big fan of, and it agrees with the data shown here (although it never displays more than the maximum 210C set, which indicates they may actually be actively hiding the over-temp peaks we are seeing…which I am NOT a fan of. I checked this on the first coil where a dry hit smell was evident (clearly touching on 220C or more) and yep, it capped out at 210 on the screen also. Bad move LostVape, that is no way to build trust with your users (assuming this is true, I could be wrong of course).

———————————————–

https://preview.redd.it/9xxd1hik1sg61.jpg?width=1983&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32c451b000943a6bb0eac3096299d57da2743fe3

Here we have a high resistance dry wire with very low mass…The mod seems to recognise its a dry wire and stops it ever getting to temperature. Chain firing it shows a very consistent outcome. Good result here, even if it does appear to be a roller coaster – nobody is going to care when the coil doesnt have the juice to produce vapour anyway. What it does show is that for low mass MTL coils, it can get to a decent temperature within around half a second with 40W, as all MTL vapers know, usually you only need 10 to 20W for low mass round wire builds.

———————————————–

https://preview.redd.it/kvn99kpq1sg61.jpg?width=1982&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=801e283696481a2c639abc5a9cd44f6967cd37fe

High ohm, high mass, wet with lots of airflow, it takes 1.4 seconds to heat (even giving it a 2 second head start before starting the airflow). It pulls back the power a little too much as it hits temperature at the same time as the airflow is starting, but after that it actually smoothes out until the airflow slows to a halt. While this is going to be too slow to heat for most TC vapers, for an MTL or chain vaper this might not be a bad outcome after the first puff. Its not exactly smooth though, so not a good outcome for MTL either really. I ran this test several times – this slight roller coaster on high resistance is replicated consistently. Its only just detectable subjectively though I would say.

———————————————–

https://preview.redd.it/mf0oxrbe2sg61.jpg?width=1980&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=04b415e58897f7b7fe21ca7b16663a99f1388d35

Here we have the highest mass coil; a dual clapton coil, wet…and I had to run it without airflow for obvious reasons. Unfortunately we only get the 40W out of it so it never reaches temperature. This makes the mod unusuable for dual coil vapers unless they are running extremely low mass builds (round wire, smaller ID, few wraps).

OVERALL: On the one hand I am surprised a brand new board to the market can perform this smoothly (when there is juice on the coil, which is what we really care about) and within ~7% of accurate…on the other hand, the 40W power limit in TC mode means that only chain vapers or maybe high ohm/MTL vapers will not be disappointed with the puff being too cold (or people setting the temperature well below 210C/410F). The control system looks like unlike anything else I have seen, maybe the closest would be the vaporesso forz mystery modes (https://imgur.com/a/RuHi6Gm) where its like a pulsed DC signal. It is interesting that this devices DOES NOT OFFER A TCR MODE…which is an apparent expression of confidence in their TC settings, which appears to be defensible at least in the case of SS316L if you dont mind a bit of temperature banding over the set temperature. In fact it is by far the simplest interface I have seen yet (no power settings either, only temperature). As far as cheap mods go, no it doesnt perform as well as a nuvoton powered mod (most eleaf, JoyeTech, Wismec, some Geekvape mods), but if you ask me its probably a better option than the vaporesso mods, for a similar price or less (I picked this up in a sale for $30 AUD) as long as you dont mind pre-firing to get to temperature (and lets face it, most people will hate that). I suppose the conclusion must be that they made a mistake removing the DNA board and marking to TC vapers as if their new product was just as good. It is definitely not. Decent first try LostVape: so close yet so far…the 40W limit means most users will deem this to be a bad TC experience. Maybe they will do better on the next one.

https://preview.redd.it/wbouclpg2sg61.jpg?width=1093&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1090f63b38b4173d6dfc3c3e7f4074b142e4316a

Standard coil set used is shown in the table above.

PREVIOUS SS316L TEST RESULTS (SO FAR) HERE:

Vaporesso Forz (Bad): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/kiq9dk/vaporesso_forz_smart_tc_testednot_so_smart_ss316l/

VooPoo X217 (Bad): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/jxd0gi/voopoo_x217_temperature_control_for_dual_coil/

Eleaf iStick Pico with Arctic Fox Firmware Stock SS (Good except for 1.6ohm/MTL dry state): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/jk7c1w/eleaft_istick_pico_75_temperature_control_testing/

Smok Mag (good with TCR 75): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/j6o5kl/temperature_control_testing_results_smok_mag/ (note: similar good results on Smok XPriv Baby with TCR 88)

Geekvape Aegis Solo Stock SS316L (Good): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/hbzrpd/temperature_testing_results_geekvape_aegis_solo/ (note: Geekvape mods that dont have the Nuvoton chip dont work well for TC. Nuvoton is in the Aegis mini, Nova and Solo and Max so far).

Geekvape G-Box Stock and Custom SS316L (Bad): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/gf5pft/temperature_control_testing_results_geekvape_gbox/

Innokin Proton Stock and Custom SS316L (Hit and Miss): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/g5dp35/temperature_control_testing_results_innokin_proton/

Vaporesso Gen (Bad): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/hnf1wn/temperature_control_testing_results_vaporesso_gen/

YiHi/Vsticking VK530 (Cheap YiHi Board – Good Dry Hit Protection, and Flavour, but Temperature "Stripes"): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/i8ye7d/temperature_control_testing_results_vsticking/

YiHi Sx Mini G Class (Good Dry Hit Protection, and Flavour, but Temperature "Stripes"): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/i73ypz/temperature_control_testing_results_yihi_sx_mini/

DiCoDes Dani 25 (Bad – despite the reputation): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/ibc82e/temperature_control_testing_results_dicodes/

DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile (Good – use https://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz and download the DNA 200 file for use on any DNA): https://www.reddit.com/r/Vaping/comments/hlx71w/temperature_control_testing_results_dna_75c/

DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using DJaquith 3.5 SS316L Profile (Bad – use Steam Engine profile instead): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/hm3y1n/temperature_control_testing_results_dna_75c/

DNA 167 LV Therion Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile (Good – use https://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz and download the DNA 200 file for use on any DNA): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/g30o4u/temperature_control_testing_results_lv_therion/

DNA 75 Volcano Ecigs Lavabox M Using Steam Engine 316L Profile (Good – use https://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz and download the DNA 200 file for use on any DNA): https://www.reddit.com/r/aussievapers/comments/gjazh3/temperature_control_testing_results_dna_75/

LV Drone DNA 250C Stock SS profile (note this is in preview form): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/fxs1x0/preview_on_dna_250c_and_input_sought_temperature/

A huge thanks to u/VapeyMcGyver for designing and building a temperature control testing rig (anyone who wants to make one should contact him – its not expensive, its based on Arduino Due and some electronics knowledge). Info on the rig he has built here: https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/f99glv/custom_built_instruments_for_testing_mod/ Hopefully this is of interest to or helps someone – if someone wanted to replicate findings that would be ideal. If anyone wants the raw data dumps or analysis files for these data runs, please let me know – I would be delighted to share and talk about possible improvements. Insert infinite disclaimers; I cannot guarantee that the equipment and method of observation has not impacted the observed outcomes (in fact I guarantee it has). The testing rig has a range of strengths and weaknesses like any experimental setup and its accuracy is not guaranteed – some of the data points shown are "rig noise". I will gratefully receive all feedback and methodology critique – this is going to be about continuous improvement for a while. I have completed extensive testing of the rig to the extent that thermocouple testing is reliable, and I estimate that the rig is accurate to around +/- 7C typically (its hard to calibrate with a thermocouple, I would say thermocouple testing is only accurate within around the same range also, due to issues like thermal contact, and variation between the temperature of different wraps in a coil e.g. centre wraps tend to be hotter than edge wraps). Because I am close to the burning temperature of dry cotton I can usually tell when a mod has gone over 220C from the smell, and I can see that also in the rig results. It should be noted that my temperature calculations are currently using a fixed TCR of 0.00092, which may impact accuracy, however my testing has not indicated a discrepancy between a good mod's displayed temp, my calculator and thermocouple results yet, even for DNA mods, at the 210C level I am testing.

​https://ift.tt/3rGSZ8y version of post for those using old reddit, here: https://ift.tt/3qcDy7M The above is the first of 7 charts/states tested and does not represent overall performance – scroll down for full report and analysis, or the TLDR summary. See a full list of mods tested so far, at the end for comparison.​TLDR: This is a REALLY interesting mod – the first in-house board powered box mod from LostVape, who decided to try to ditch the DNA boards and strike out on their own. In short, they failed…but really not by much. A 40W power limit in TC mode means that the only vapers that will get to temperature will be single coil chain vapers (for their second puff) and maybe high ohm MTL vapers , unless the user is really going for a cold vape (like around 150C). It took around 2 seconds to get to 210C/410F on most coils, even giving it 1 second to heat up before starting the airflow. But once temperature is reached, its within ~7% of the set temperature which is not too bad, not amazing but not too bad…better than vaporesso products in any case. This is fortunate, because there is no way to set a TCR on this mod, so you can fix any inaccuracies even if you wanted to (cant set the power either). It also appears that the “live temperature display” actively hides any temperatures above your set temperature, which is very cheeky if true! As far as cheap mods go, a nuvoton board mod (most eleaf, joyetech, wismec and some geekvape mods) will perform better for the same money, and this is certainly not a competitor the DNA board that it replaced. I think someone at LostVape knows this, because the Lost Vape Evolv business has been spun out as a separate entity, and still uses exclusively for arguably the best TC mods on the market.The following represents the results of temperature control testing of the LostVape Grus, the first box mod from LostVape that uses their own in-house board, rather than a DNA. The conditions of each test are shown in the title of each graph. A perfectly accurate temperature control result is the red line matching the yellow line.———————————————–For this first coil, low resistance, mid to high mass, vaped dry, without airflow (shown above), there was a hint of a dry hit smell, but not smoky. I stopped firing and then fired again to see if it did better in a chain vape scenario, and it does actually seem to bring the power down a but for the second hit, with an overall better result.———————————————–https://ift.tt/3a764C5 is a more realistic case, low ohms, wet, with lots of airflow. I was surprised by how flat and consistent the outcome is, even if it is little over the set temperature, its not that inaccurate, and you could argue it is maintaining the temperature as a minimum almost perfectly. A couple of really important things to notice here:a) the mod seems to be limited to 40W, which means it takes around 2 seconds to reach temperature….which is not a good outcome for TC vapers (I even gave it around 1 second to heat up before starting the airflow…but this mod suffers from the same problem so many mods do with TC, which is unnecessarily limited power)…this is supposed to be a 100W mod!b) you can see the power is actually not a smooth/straight line, and interestingly looks almost a bit like PWM (but is not), and the effect is similar to a YiHi PWM TC outcome where the rapid changes in power (which you cannot feel) produce a band of temperature through the vape. Some argue that this improves flavour because of the wider range of temperatures the juice is being vaped at. This is quite a narrow band compared to a YiHi device however, with the temperature appears to be smoothly maintained between the set 210C and about 225C i.e. within about 7% of the objective (a YiHi on the other hand can easily display bands 20C wide).———————————————–https://ift.tt/2Z8GqXi we have a mid ohm, dry coil, without airflow. No dry hit smell this time, and I took a break in the firing to see how it would respond to a chain vape fire, and it does seem to peak at a lower level this time. Again, around 10C over the set temperature at the peaks, but pulling back reasonably quickly. This is a roller coaster ride, not smooth at all, but one could argue in this vaped dry state, that is not an issue.———————————————–https://ift.tt/3rHI4eP a more realistic, mid ohm, wet coil, with airflow, we again see a pretty flat but slightly banded temperature outcome between the set 210C and a slightly too hot 220C, but this may be intentional given the rapid power fluctuations we are seeing. As the airflow slows it pulls the power down appropriately, with an odd little peak that follows the airflow stopping completely (nobody would keep firing after stopping their draw though I assume, so we can ignore this). Again, if it wasnt for the extremely low ~40W maximum power issue that means it takes nearly 2 seconds to heat up, you might say this is actually pretty good. If youre a chain vaper, you subsequent puffs after you get it up to temp are probably going to be pretty good. For someone like me that isnt a chain vaper, unfortunately I found the vape too cold on every puff unless I waited 2 seconds for it to heat up before starting my draw. Interestingly they have chosen to show live temperature on the screen, which I am actually a big fan of, and it agrees with the data shown here (although it never displays more than the maximum 210C set, which indicates they may actually be actively hiding the over-temp peaks we are seeing…which I am NOT a fan of. I checked this on the first coil where a dry hit smell was evident (clearly touching on 220C or more) and yep, it capped out at 210 on the screen also. Bad move LostVape, that is no way to build trust with your users (assuming this is true, I could be wrong of course).———————————————–https://ift.tt/3pcaiMU we have a high resistance dry wire with very low mass…The mod seems to recognise its a dry wire and stops it ever getting to temperature. Chain firing it shows a very consistent outcome. Good result here, even if it does appear to be a roller coaster – nobody is going to care when the coil doesnt have the juice to produce vapour anyway. What it does show is that for low mass MTL coils, it can get to a decent temperature within around half a second with 40W, as all MTL vapers know, usually you only need 10 to 20W for low mass round wire builds.———————————————–https://ift.tt/3jER69s ohm, high mass, wet with lots of airflow, it takes 1.4 seconds to heat (even giving it a 2 second head start before starting the airflow). It pulls back the power a little too much as it hits temperature at the same time as the airflow is starting, but after that it actually smoothes out until the airflow slows to a halt. While this is going to be too slow to heat for most TC vapers, for an MTL or chain vaper this might not be a bad outcome after the first puff. Its not exactly smooth though, so not a good outcome for MTL either really. I ran this test several times – this slight roller coaster on high resistance is replicated consistently. Its only just detectable subjectively though I would say.———————————————–https://ift.tt/2OutGs7 we have the highest mass coil; a dual clapton coil, wet…and I had to run it without airflow for obvious reasons. Unfortunately we only get the 40W out of it so it never reaches temperature. This makes the mod unusuable for dual coil vapers unless they are running extremely low mass builds (round wire, smaller ID, few wraps).OVERALL: On the one hand I am surprised a brand new board to the market can perform this smoothly (when there is juice on the coil, which is what we really care about) and within ~7% of accurate…on the other hand, the 40W power limit in TC mode means that only chain vapers or maybe high ohm/MTL vapers will not be disappointed with the puff being too cold (or people setting the temperature well below 210C/410F). The control system looks like unlike anything else I have seen, maybe the closest would be the vaporesso forz mystery modes (https://ift.tt/3jDOb0M) where its like a pulsed DC signal. It is interesting that this devices DOES NOT OFFER A TCR MODE…which is an apparent expression of confidence in their TC settings, which appears to be defensible at least in the case of SS316L if you dont mind a bit of temperature banding over the set temperature. In fact it is by far the simplest interface I have seen yet (no power settings either, only temperature). As far as cheap mods go, no it doesnt perform as well as a nuvoton powered mod (most eleaf, JoyeTech, Wismec, some Geekvape mods), but if you ask me its probably a better option than the vaporesso mods, for a similar price or less (I picked this up in a sale for $30 AUD) as long as you dont mind pre-firing to get to temperature (and lets face it, most people will hate that). I suppose the conclusion must be that they made a mistake removing the DNA board and marking to TC vapers as if their new product was just as good. It is definitely not. Decent first try LostVape: so close yet so far…the 40W limit means most users will deem this to be a bad TC experience. Maybe they will do better on the next one.https://ift.tt/3jH9mPS coil set used is shown in the table above.PREVIOUS SS316L TEST RESULTS (SO FAR) HERE:Vaporesso Forz (Bad): https://ift.tt/2ZdJykB X217 (Bad): https://ift.tt/3qfVizg iStick Pico with Arctic Fox Firmware Stock SS (Good except for 1.6ohm/MTL dry state): https://ift.tt/3313jhG Mag (good with TCR 75): https://ift.tt/2H5SrHq (note: similar good results on Smok XPriv Baby with TCR 88)Geekvape Aegis Solo Stock SS316L (Good): https://ift.tt/3i65khq (note: Geekvape mods that dont have the Nuvoton chip dont work well for TC. Nuvoton is in the Aegis mini, Nova and Solo and Max so far).Geekvape G-Box Stock and Custom SS316L (Bad): https://ift.tt/2HKHNGp Proton Stock and Custom SS316L (Hit and Miss): https://ift.tt/2Twgnqp Gen (Bad): https://ift.tt/35LUNUm VK530 (Cheap YiHi Board – Good Dry Hit Protection, and Flavour, but Temperature “Stripes”): https://ift.tt/313ILol Sx Mini G Class (Good Dry Hit Protection, and Flavour, but Temperature “Stripes”): https://ift.tt/2TzjlKH Dani 25 (Bad – despite the reputation): https://ift.tt/3kFnuZv 75C LostVape Paranormal Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile (Good – use https://ift.tt/34D62PG and download the DNA 200 file for use on any DNA): https://ift.tt/38BSGUa 75C LostVape Paranormal Using DJaquith 3.5 SS316L Profile (Bad – use Steam Engine profile instead): https://ift.tt/2JijFeY 167 LV Therion Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile (Good – use https://ift.tt/34D62PG and download the DNA 200 file for use on any DNA): https://ift.tt/2Jc0HGF 75 Volcano Ecigs Lavabox M Using Steam Engine 316L Profile (Good – use https://ift.tt/34D62PG and download the DNA 200 file for use on any DNA): https://ift.tt/2YUnigD Drone DNA 250C Stock SS profile (note this is in preview form): https://ift.tt/2Wtf11W huge thanks to u/VapeyMcGyver for designing and building a temperature control testing rig (anyone who wants to make one should contact him – its not expensive, its based on Arduino Due and some electronics knowledge). Info on the rig he has built here: https://ift.tt/3gFEzQW Hopefully this is of interest to or helps someone – if someone wanted to replicate findings that would be ideal. If anyone wants the raw data dumps or analysis files for these data runs, please let me know – I would be delighted to share and talk about possible improvements. Insert infinite disclaimers; I cannot guarantee that the equipment and method of observation has not impacted the observed outcomes (in fact I guarantee it has). The testing rig has a range of strengths and weaknesses like any experimental setup and its accuracy is not guaranteed – some of the data points shown are “rig noise”. I will gratefully receive all feedback and methodology critique – this is going to be about continuous improvement for a while. I have completed extensive testing of the rig to the extent that thermocouple testing is reliable, and I estimate that the rig is accurate to around +/- 7C typically (its hard to calibrate with a thermocouple, I would say thermocouple testing is only accurate within around the same range also, due to issues like thermal contact, and variation between the temperature of different wraps in a coil e.g. centre wraps tend to be hotter than edge wraps). Because I am close to the burning temperature of dry cotton I can usually tell when a mod has gone over 220C from the smell, and I can see that also in the rig results. It should be noted that my temperature calculations are currently using a fixed TCR of 0.00092, which may impact accuracy, however my testing has not indicated a discrepancy between a good mod’s displayed temp, my calculator and thermocouple results yet, even for DNA mods, at the 210C level I am testing.

Submitted February 11, 2021 at 12:39PM by AussieGeekVaper
via reddit https://ift.tt/3aT0DpD}

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